Liam's Training Diary

Latest Training Update

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So my training log has laxed….

I’m currently thinking about how i can keep this site updated without having to directly replicate what I write down on my daily basis so here is a brief overview of what I have and am doing now

 

Climbing

I recently reset my Moonboard and have a number of problems ranging from 60% through to 150% of my max.

I am doing sets of about 3-4 attempts on each problem

I also have added 2 circuits onto our 20 degree wall in an effort to build a little more movement into my climbing and some power endurance. this seems to be working nicely.

 

Recently I have been campusing and focusing less on finger strength due to a small niggle in my left ring finger which has lead to a small issue in my middle finger.

These are coming right ow with the issue no longer affecting my climbing however I have found a distinct lack of strength in the now healed ring finger. So I have begun another round of finger strength training on my beast maker and new home made finger system.

 

This will consist of 2 – 3 finger session a week 1 of them being dead hangs and 1 arm pullups on small holds that are far above what I can currently hold and only achieved by taking weight off through a pulley system

The other session will consist of repeaters and encores over about 8 different grips

 

Gym

My quest to get back to my former levels of strength of last summer at my now 11 kg lighter frame is going well.  Most recently I am back to 40 kg dumbells @ 8 reps in each arm flat and decline benche, only 2.5 kg off where i was a year ago

My back workouts are going well and exceeding everything i was doing this time last year including 47.5 1 arm rows @ 10 reps

I am also attempting to up my running to hit my 3 runs a week with my bench mark of 5 x 3min intervals @ 12k an hour and then finishing of 5 k. Currently I am at a 3 interval mark and only able to run out 4k haha

 

I am currently re-evaluating how i will train for the next 6 weeks with Aleshia so watch this space and hopefully I’ll have thought of a way to update this diary better too

 

Train Hard Everyone

11-9-2011

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Weight: 82.5kg Energy Level (1-10):    6-7
Training:

 

Walk up papamoa hills in the rain

 

1 hour climbing movement

½ hour body tension exercises

 

 

Food:

 

Breakfast: 3 Eggs on Toast

Snack: ½ Cajun Chicken Sandwich

Lunch: Chicken & Salad Sandwich

Snack: Fruit Split

Dinner: Chicken Chilli Stir Fry

10-9-2011

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Weight: 81.5kg Energy Level (1-10):   8
Training: Climbing 

Day out at Froggatt!

Food: 

Breakfast: 2 eggs on 1 Crumpet

Snack: nuts

Lunch: Tuna & Beans

Snack: crackers

Dinner: Pita Bread Mini Pizza’s

9-9-2011

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Rest Day

8-9-2011

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Weight: 81.5kg Energy Level (1-10):   8
Training: Climbing

 

Did 1 ½ hours of power circuit on moon board.

Didn’t do fingerboard training, my fingers were a little sore

Food:

 

Breakfast: 2 eggs on 1 Crumpet

Snack:

Lunch: Chicken Sandwich

Snack: 2 pieces of peanut butter on toast

Dinner: Turkish

7-9-2011

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Weight: 82.5kg Energy Level (1-10):  6
Training: Weights 

Exercise Weight Reps:Sets
Dips 20 kg added 6-8:3
Pull ups 15,20 kg added 8:3
Lateral Raises 15,17.5 kg 8:3
Tricep Pull Downs 74kg 8:3
Hammer Curls 22.5 kg 8:3
Food: 

Breakfast: 2 eggs on toast

Snack: Apple

Lunch: Tuna & Beans on Crackers

Snack: Handful of nuts

Dinner: Chicken Stirfry

5-9-2011

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Weight: n/a Energy Level (1-10):   5ish
Training: Climbing 

 

Managed to get a quick 1 hour power session with Matt in welly

 

Food: 

Ate crap on my course

3/9/2011

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Weight: 82kg Energy Level (1-10):  3 until after training then 7
Training: Weights 

Exercise Weight Reps:Sets
Incline press 60 kg 6-8:3
1 arm bent over row 45kg 6-8:3
Shoulder Press 27.5 kg 6-8:3
Upright Row 50kg + ezibar 6-8:2

 

20 min uphill walk on treadmill

Food: 

Breakfast: 2 eggs on crumpet with 1 piece of peanut butter on toast

 

Snack: Fruit Split

 

Lunch: Chicken Stir-fry

 

Snack: crackers and hummus

 

Dinner: chicken curry

2/9/2011

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Motivation: Medium
Energy Level (1-10):   4
Training: Climbing

 

Did 1 hour of climbing movement on various problems on our 20 & 45 degree walls.

Skin was very thin after yesterday so a very light session and felt quite tired after

Food:

 

Breakfast: 2 eggs with spinach on piece of toast

Snack: 1 apple

Lunch: 5 crackers & large can of tuna

Snack: nuts and 2 pieces of peanut butter on      toast

Dinner: 2 Chicken Burrito’s

1/9/2011

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Motivation: High                   Energy Level (1-10):   7
Training: ClimbingSkipped Training to go climbing outside Food: Breakfast: Fruit Split Muffin

Snack: –

Lunch: Chicken Sandwhich

Snack: nuts & apple turnover

Dinner: Turkish to go

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